A PILE of ashes is not usually very beautiful, and if it is in your back yard it is usually very ugly. But in Italy there is a pile of ashes which every one thinks beautiful, though it is nearly a mile high and though it is in the back yard of a city called Naples. It is on the beautiful Bay of Naples, and people have built their homes and hotels around the bay so as to get a view of this pile of ashes, which is called Mount Vesuvius, though it's not really a mountain at all.
In olden days when grown-up people believed in fairy-tales they said that a lame blacksmith lived down under the ground, that he kept a huge furnace burning there to heat the iron with which he worked. His name they said was Vulcan, and the smoke and flame that came out of the ground and the ashes that piled up above the ground were from his fires. So we call these mountains of ashes, through the top of which fire and smoke pour forth, volcanoes, after Vulcan.
There are volcanoes in many places in the World, but Vesuvius is the best known of all. We now know that volcanoes are huge fiery furnaces beneath the ground, but we also know that no man nor fairy nor god is down there keeping them burning. Some volcanoes in other parts of the World have burned out, but the fires of Vesuvius have not. Vesuvius is always smoking and burning. We can see smoke or steam coming out of its top in the day and we can see the firelight come out of its top at night, but usually it does no more damage than a huge smoking chimney would. But every now and then the fires start burning fiercely and rock and ashes are shot up into the air, and pieces of rock are blown to such fine powder that they float in the air like dust. This dust may float for months in the air and for thousands of miles to other countries far off from the volcano from which it comes. Strange to say, it is this dust from volcanoes that often makes the sunsets such brilliant colors.
The fire in volcanoes is hotter than any fire we can make. We can make a fire so hot that it will melt copper and iron, but we can't make a fire so hot that it will melt rock. A volcano fire melts rock as easily as if it were butter. The rock that the volcano melts flows over the top like a pot boiling over and runs down the sides in streams that gradually harden into rock as they cool off. This rock is called lava, and as there is plenty of lava around Naples the people there use blocks of lava to pave their streets.
Some years ago I was in Naples after Vesuvius had been firing up. The streets of Naples were filled with what looked like gray snow. The gray snow was dust that had fallen from the volcano, but it would not melt like snow and had to be carted away and dumped into the Bay of Naples. I wanted to see what the inside of a volcano looked like. There had been a railway almost to the top, but it had been wrecked. So I climbed from the bottom to the top, though it took half a day to do so, for at each step my feet sank deep into the ashes. I looked over the edge, down into the fiery mouth of the volcano. Every now and then pieces of rock would shoot high into the air and, looking up, I would dodge those that fell near-by. Entirely, too many were falling around me, so I started back down the side of the volcano. I didn't walk down, I jumped, for each step I took was like jumping off a house, and at each step I fell, only I didn't hurt myself when I fell, for I sank into the ashes up to my knees, up to my waist, up to my neck. It was great fun, like jumping into a pile of hay, only it was oh, so dirty! It took me half a day to go up-it took me about ten minutes to come down-but hours to wash off the ashes when I was down, and my clothes were utterly ruined.
Some birds build their nests on the tops of chimneys, but it seems strange that people should build their homes at the foot of a volcano that may blow up and destroy them at any time. Yet long, long ago people built a city at the foot of Vesuvius, nearer even than Naples. It was called Pompeii. All of a sudden one day Vesuvius began to burn and boil and then blew up. Before any one in Pompeii knew what was going to happen, before any one had time to move from the spot where he was working or playing, Vesuvius had poured down on this little city its deadly fire and smoke and gas, and every one was killed where he stood and buried deep in dust and ashes. There the city and its people lay buried for almost two thousand years. Not so very long ago the city was dug out, its houses and temples and theaters were uncovered, and travelers can now visit the ruins, walk through the streets, and go into the houses and shops where once upon a time people went about their daily tasks and pleasures without a thought that the end of the World was coming to them in the twinkling of an eye.
No one knows when Vesuvius may do the same thing again, but the people in Naples never seem to think of such a thing; they don't worry; they go about the streets singing happily; in fact, it's one of the few cities in the World where people sing on the streets.
We may hear people whistling on the street in this country, but seldom, if ever, do we hear them sing on the streets. Singing may not be a sign of happiness at all, but people in Naples sing and sing, especially at night. Taxi drivers sing, ragged street urchins sing, beggars sing, and they sing songs you hear at concerts or in the opera. One of the greatest singers that ever lived, who now is dead, but whom you can still hear singing on the phonograph, was once a street urchin in Naples. Then he came to America. His name was Caruso.
The Italian language is the language of singing, the language of music. Some one has said you can't help singing if you speak Italian. Even the sheet music we use in this country is usually written in Italian and the directions for playing are given in Italian. In Italian almost every word ends in a vowel, that is, in a, e, i, o, or u. Piano and 'cello, soprano and alto are Italian words. Even Naples ends in a vowel, for in Italian it is called Napoli.
The name "Goat" is neither pretty nor musical and it wouldn't sound well in a song, but across the Bay of Naples is an island the name of which in English is goat; but in Italian it is "Capri," and songs are sung about "Bella Capri"-the beautiful Capri-the beautiful Goat Island.
In the rocky shore of Capri there is a sea cave which you can only enter in a rowboat through a low opening. The opening is so low you have to duck your head, and if the waves are high you can't go through at all. The cave is called the Blue Grotto, for inside this rocky cave the water is such a beautiful clear blue that it seems almost as if your boat were floating on sky instead of on water. What makes it so blue? If you dip some of the water up in a bottle to take home as a souvenir-as I have known people to do-the water is just as colorless as the water in your own bathtub.
一堆灰,通常是不美的。如果它在你家后院里,通常會(huì)覺(jué)得它很丑。但是在意大利有一堆灰,盡管它幾乎有一英里高,盡管位于一座叫那不勒斯的城市的后院里,人們卻覺(jué)得它很美。它坐落在優(yōu)美的那不勒斯海灣,人們?cè)诤持車ㄆ鹱≌唾e館,為的就是能看到這堆灰。人們稱之為維蘇威火山,盡管它并不是一座真正的山。
從前,在成年人還相信神話故事的時(shí)候,傳說(shuō)有一個(gè)跛腳的鐵匠住在地底下,他讓一個(gè)大熔爐在那里不停地燃燒,把他工作用的鐵燒熟。據(jù)說(shuō)他的名字叫法爾坎(古羅馬神話中火和冶煉的神)。那些從地下噴出的煙和火焰,以及堆積在地上的灰燼就來(lái)自他的大熔爐。所以我們以"法爾坎"(Vulcan)之名,把那些不斷噴出火和煙的山稱作火山(volcanoes)。
世界上很多地方都有火山,但是維蘇威火山是最出名的。我們現(xiàn)在知道,火山只是地下熾熱的巨大火爐;我們也知道,地下并沒(méi)有人也沒(méi)有神仙使火爐一直燃燒。世界上其他地方的一些火山已經(jīng)燃燒殆盡,不再噴發(fā)了,但維蘇威火山還沒(méi)有燒盡。維蘇威火山始終在冒煙和燃燒,白天可以看見煙或蒸汽從山頂噴出,晚上可以看到山頂冒出的火光。但就像一個(gè)巨大的冒著煙的煙囪一樣,通常不會(huì)造成損害。然而會(huì)不時(shí)地有火焰從中猛烈噴出,巖石和灰塵被沖上天空,那些巖石被沖成了非常細(xì)小的粉末,可以像灰塵一樣飄浮在空中。這些塵埃也許會(huì)在空中漂浮幾個(gè)月,甚至?xí)h到離火山幾千英里之外的其他國(guó)家去。說(shuō)也奇怪,正是這些來(lái)自火山的塵埃常常使日落有著如此燦爛的色彩。
火山里的火要比我們?nèi)祟慄c(diǎn)燃的任何火都要熱。我們生的火的熱量可以熔化銅和鐵,但是無(wú)法熔化巖石?;鹕交鹂梢韵袢刍S油那樣輕而易舉地熔化巖石。那些被熔化了的巖石,就像因沸騰而溢出水壺的開水,小溪般從山頂四周流下,最終冷卻下來(lái)逐漸變成巖石。這種巖石被稱作火山巖。由于那不勒斯周圍有大量火山巖,那兒的人們就用大塊的火山巖鋪街道。
幾年前,我在維蘇威火山噴發(fā)后不久來(lái)到那不勒斯。道路上蓋滿了像灰色的雪一樣的東西。那些灰色的雪就是從火山上落下的火山灰,但不會(huì)像雪那樣融化,需要被大車運(yùn)走,倒進(jìn)那不勒斯海灣。我想看一看火山里面是什么樣的。曾經(jīng)有一條幾乎通到山頂?shù)蔫F路,但被毀了。于是,我從山下攀上山頂,這花費(fèi)了我半天的時(shí)間。因?yàn)槊孔咭徊轿业哪_都會(huì)陷進(jìn)厚厚的灰中。我從火山口的邊緣,朝烈火炎炎的火山口向下看。不時(shí)有石塊射向空中,我向上看以躲避那些落在周圍的巖石碎塊。確實(shí)有不少巖石落在我周圍,于是我決定往回走,不是步行,而是跳躍,每跳一步都像是從房子上跳下來(lái),每跳一步,我都會(huì)摔倒,不過(guò)沒(méi)有受傷,因?yàn)槲蚁萑肓嘶覊m中,我的膝蓋、腰,甚至脖子都陷進(jìn)灰里。這實(shí)在是太有趣了,就像跳進(jìn)了草堆里,只不過(guò),噢,好臟啊。我花了半天的時(shí)間爬上山頂,而下山僅用了十分鐘,但下山后我花了好幾個(gè)小時(shí)來(lái)洗掉身上的灰塵,我的衣服全毀了。
一些鳥類會(huì)把巢建在煙囪頂部,但是,如果有人將家園建在一座隨時(shí)會(huì)噴發(fā)并可能將他們家園毀滅的火山旁邊,就有些奇怪了。然而,在很久以前,人們?cè)诰S蘇威火山腳下建起了一座城市,比那不勒斯離火山還要近,它叫龐貝。突然有一天,維蘇威火山開始燃燒,沸騰,然后爆發(fā)了。對(duì)將要發(fā)生的事,龐貝城中還無(wú)人來(lái)得及知道,也無(wú)人有時(shí)間從他們工作或游戲的場(chǎng)所逃離,維蘇威火山就將它致命的火焰、煙塵和氣體傾瀉到這座小城之上,每個(gè)人就在他所站立的地方死去并被深埋進(jìn)火山灰中。這座城和城里的人就被埋在那里長(zhǎng)達(dá)兩千年之久。前不久,這座城市被挖了出來(lái),那些房屋、廟宇和劇院得以重見天日。游客可以參觀這些廢墟,在街道上行走,還進(jìn)入那些房子和商店。很久以前,就在這些地方,人們忙于日常工作并享受生活,從未想到世界末日在眨眼之間就降臨到他們身上。
沒(méi)有人知道維蘇威火山會(huì)在哪一天再次制造這樣的悲劇,但是那不勒斯人似乎從不考慮這件事,他們并不擔(dān)心,他們高興地唱著歌在大街上走著。事實(shí)上,世界上人們?cè)诮稚铣璧某鞘泻苌伲遣焕账故瞧渲兄弧?br />
在美國(guó),也許會(huì)聽到有人在街上吹口哨,但是我們幾乎聽不到有人在街上唱歌。歌唱也許并不代表著快樂(lè),但生活在那不勒斯的人們不停地唱著,尤其是在晚上。出租車司機(jī)在唱,路邊衣衫襤褸的頑童在唱,乞丐也在唱。他們唱著那些你會(huì)在音樂(lè)會(huì)或歌劇中聽到的歌曲。有一位已逝的大歌唱家,他曾是世界上最偉大的歌唱家之一,他的歌聲你現(xiàn)在還可以從留聲機(jī)中聽到,他曾經(jīng)就是那不勒斯街頭的一個(gè)頑童。后來(lái)他去了美國(guó),他的名字叫卡魯索。
意大利語(yǔ)是歌唱的語(yǔ)言,是音樂(lè)的語(yǔ)言。有人說(shuō)過(guò),當(dāng)你說(shuō)意大利語(yǔ)的時(shí)候,你會(huì)情不自禁地唱起來(lái)。在美國(guó),樂(lè)譜常常用意大利語(yǔ)來(lái)譜寫,演奏說(shuō)明也是用意大利語(yǔ)。意大利語(yǔ)中的每一個(gè)單詞幾乎都是以元音結(jié)尾的,也就是以a,e,i,o,u結(jié)尾。比如piano(鋼琴),cello(大提琴),soprano(女高音)和alto(女低音)都是意大利語(yǔ)。甚至那不勒斯這個(gè)詞也是以元音結(jié)尾的,因?yàn)樗谝獯罄Z(yǔ)中叫做Napoli。
"山羊"(Goat)這個(gè)單詞并不美妙,也不悅耳。但在那不勒斯海灣對(duì)面有一座島嶼,它的英文名字叫"goat"(山羊),但在意大利語(yǔ)中它叫"Capri"(卡布里)。有一首歌叫《美麗的卡布里》--美麗的卡布里--美麗的山羊島。
在卡布里島布滿巖石的岸邊,有一個(gè)海上的洞穴,你只能從一個(gè)低矮的洞口乘劃艇進(jìn)入。那個(gè)洞口實(shí)在是太小了,你不得不低下頭才能進(jìn)去,并且,如果海浪高一點(diǎn),你根本就無(wú)法通過(guò)。這個(gè)洞穴被稱作"藍(lán)洞",因?yàn)樵谶@個(gè)巖石構(gòu)成的洞穴中,海水的藍(lán)色是那樣的美麗明凈,你似乎覺(jué)得自己的小船好像是在天空中漂浮而不是在水上。是什么使它如此的藍(lán)呢?如果你用瓶子在這里裝點(diǎn)帶回家作紀(jì)念品--就像我所知道的,人們通常都會(huì)這樣做--瓶里的水就會(huì)像你家浴缸里的水一樣,是無(wú)色的。
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