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雙語+MP3|美國學生藝術史60 最古老的房子

所屬教程:希利爾:美國學生文史經典套裝

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2019年01月23日

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60 THE OLDEST HOUSE最古老的房子
 
SOME men were talking about houses. “How old is your house?” one of them asked me. “Five years old,” I replied. “Well, my house is over a hundred years old,” said the man. “It’s in Massachusetts.” 
“Only a hundred years old!” exclaimed another man. “My house is two hundred years old. It’s in Virginia.” 
“That doesn’t seem old to me,” still another man said. “My house is four hundred and fifty years old.” 
Each one was trying to tell a bigger story than the other. 
“Four hundred and fifty years old!“ I cried. ”How can that be? That’s before America was discovered, before there were any white men’s houses in this country.” 
“It isn’t in America,” he replied. “It’s in England. I’m an Englishman.” 
“Oh, well, that’s different. If you count houses abroad, I’ve been in a house that’s a thousand years old. It’s a Church. It’s in France.” 
“Only a thousand years old?” The Englishman seemed bent on going me one better.“I’ve been in a house built two thousand years ago. It’s in Greece—a temple. They call it the Parthenon.” 
“Well,” said I,not to be outdone, “I can beat that. I’ve been in a house that is five thousand years old—a house built for the dead. It’s in Egypt. They call it a pyramid.” 
“You win,” said the Englishman. “No one can beat that.” 
And that’s true. The oldest houses in the world are the pyramids in Egypt——houses for the dead. But why are the oldest houses, houses for the dead? Where are the houses of the living—the houses they built five thousand years ago to live in? 
They’re all gone—long, long ago—and the reason is this: A man expected to live only fifty years or so and he built his house out of wood or mud bricks to last only as long as he lived, so the wood houses have all rotted away and the houses made of mud brick have turned back to dust. But he expected to be a long time dead, so if he were a king, he built a house for himself to be dead in and he built it so that it would last till Judgment Day. 
You see, the Egyptians, hundreds of years before Christ, believed in resurrection. They believed their dead bodies would sometime come to life again, so they built the pyramids out of stone to last till then, and they had their bodies embalmed—that is, made into what we call mummies—to last till then also. Now, the pyramids are still there in Egypt, but the mummies that were once in them are not in them any more. They have been stolen or have been taken away and put in museums—in museums for any one and every one to gaze upon, in spite of all the care that the tomb builder tool to have his body undisturbed till Judgment Day. We do not pay so much attention to how and where we are to be buried. Even kings and queens nowadays are buried in the ground with a monument over them or in a simple tomb. 
There were over a hundred pyramids built near the river Nile by Egypt’s rulers, but the largest is one built by King Cheops about three thousand years before Christ was born. That’s about five thousand years ago. The pyramid is almost five hundred feet high. It used to be four hundred and eighty, to be exact, but the top has been broken off and it is now only four hundred and fifty-one. In spite of that, it is by far the largest stone building in the world—a mountain of stone. 
The pyramid of Cheops is built of solid rock on a natural rock foundation, but as there was no rock near by for building the pyramid itself, it had to be brought from quarries some of which were fifty miles away and some five hundred miles away. Then it had to be dragged fifty miles or five hundred miles from the quarry. Some of the huge stones weighed more than a loaded freight car and it took several years to drag the rocks to the site of the pyramid. 
You see, there was no machinery in those days—no pulleys or derricks, no tracks or trucks, no engines or mechanical contrivances— such as we have nowadays to lift and carry huge loads, so that every block of stone had to be pushed or pulled by sheer brute force. Hundreds of men tugged from in front and hundreds shoved from behind. And then each block had to be lifted and moved into place. Probably a roadway was built right up the side of the pyramid to where the block could be slid into position. It is supposed to have taken twenty years to build Cheops’s pyramid and they say the king employed over a hundred thousand men to do the job. 
The outside of the pyramid when it was finished was smooth, polished stone— perhaps in bands of different colored granite, but long ago all this covering of polished stone was stolen and carried off to make other buildings, so that the sides of the pyramid are now rough, irregular steps, each one several feet high, and you can climb to the top on any side simply by climbing from one step to another. 
The Great Pyramid, as we call it, if it were sliced through the center like a piece of cheese, would show three small rooms one above the other and some slanting passageways to the three rooms. The rest would be solid rock. See the picture below. 
 
No.60-1 THE GREAT PYRAMID (大金字塔) 
The topmost room was for the king’s own mummy and in order to make sure that the weight of stone above would not crush through the room in which his mummy was, he had five ceilings of stone built, one above the other, with a space above each ceiling and then a slanting ceiling above them all. The two lines slanting upward from his room to the sides are small air passages. The room underneath his own was for his queen and the one under that, in the cellar or foundation of the pyramid was, perhaps, for nobody. That was for a while the great mystery of the Great Pyramid, but now we feel we have guessed the riddle. You see, there was only one passageway starting from the outside. From this one passageway another secret passageway led off to the king’s and queen’s chambers, but the passage that went straight ahead led down to the room that had nothing in it. Cheops was afraid that after he and his queen had been buried away in this tomb, some enemy of his might try to steal their mummies and so prevent them from coming to life again on Judgment Day. So he had all the passageways filled up with stone after he was buried and then the entrance covered so that no one could find where or how to get in. 
But Cheops figured that if some one did find the entrance and began to dig out the passageway down to the cellar, this straight passage would lead him off the track and he would keep on down and not see the other secret passageway leading off to the king’s and queen’s chambers. Then when he did reach the empty room, he would find nothing—an April fool joke. 
But in spite of all these extraordinary precautions that Cheops took to prevent any one’s finding his mummy, all these passageways and rooms were later discovered and opened and the mummies were removed—to where, by whom, no one knows—and that was a joke on Cheops. 
Though, as I told you, there are over a hundred pyramids, not all of them have the true pyramid form. That is, not all of them are triangular. In some pyramids the sides slope in very little at the bottom and then, as if the builder had changed his mind, they slope in faster toward the top. The Pharaoh who built his tomb like this may have been sick and afraid he was going to die before the pyramid was finished and so had to hurry up. In some of the pyramids the sides zigzag toward the top in several giant-like steps, Perhaps the Pharaoh just wanted to have his pyramid different from all the others. Some of the pyramids are built of brick instead of stone. Perhaps the Pharaohs who built such pyramids were poor. 
And so, the three greatest pyramids stand close together on the sands of the desert in giant majesty as they have stood for ages past and will for ages and ages to come, to thrill the beholder with their sublime grandeur. 
Mere size doesn’t make a thing beautiful. A big thing may be very ugly. But the pyramids are monuments to man’s attempt to make something enduring, lasting, and the builders succeeded in making the most permanent, lasting thing ever built by man. The pyramids are also monuments to their belief in a life after death. And when we think of the millions of people that have come and gone, lived and died, since these mighty monuments were built, and the countless millions that will come and go while the pyramids still stand on, it sets us thinking of the shortness of our little lives and the awesome length of eternity—and that is ART. 
 
No.60-2 TOMB AT BENI-HASAN (貝尼哈桑墓) 
Courtesy of The University Prints 
All the pyramids were tombs, but not all tombs were pyramids. That is—some tombs were not pyramid-shaped at all, but just stone buildings with flat tops. Furthermore, some tombs were simply caves cut into the rock cliffs on the west side of the Nile. These rock tombs were hollowed out on the west side of the river so that the entrance would face east, toward the rising sun. The Egyptians never faced their tombs any other way, for they thought the Sun God could not wake the dead on Judgment Day unless the tomb faced him as he rose in the east. If the tomb faced him he would wake these people who were dead, just as the rising sun shining into east windows wakes a sleeper in the morning. 
Here is such a rock-cut tomb—one of the most famous—a tomb at Beni-Hasan: 
It is particularly interesting because it has two colunms in front, two columns cut out of the selfsame rock. None of the pyramid tombs had columns. 
So these are the oldest houses in the world. Houses of the dead, Pyramids and tombs. 


 
一些人正在討論房子。“你的房子有多少年數(shù)了啊?”其中一個人問我。“五年了,”我答道。“哦,我的房子已經有一個多世紀的歷史了。在馬薩諸塞州。” 
“也不過才一百多年嘛!”另外一個人大聲說道,“我的房子已經有兩百年歷史了。在弗吉尼亞州。” 
“好像沒我的老呀,”又一個人說道,“我的房子已經有四百五十年歷史了。” 
每個人都竭力講出一所歷史更悠久的房子,來超過對手。 
“四百五十年啊!”我驚呼,“怎么可能呢!那時候還沒發(fā)現(xiàn)美洲大陸,還沒有一個白人到美國來居住呢!” 
“那房子不在美國”,他補充道,“在英國。我是英國人。” 
“哦?是嗎,那就另當別論了。如果你指的房子還包括國外的,那我曾經還在一個有一千多年歷史的房子里待過呢。那是一座教堂。在法國。” 
“才一千多年啊。”這位英國人似乎跟我較上勁了。“我曾去過一棟有兩千多年歷史的房子呢。那是希臘的一座神廟。人們稱它為帕臺農神廟。” 
“哼,”我不肯認輸?shù)卣f道:“那有什么,我還到過一座有五千多年歷史的房子呢——一個專門為死人建造的房子。在埃及,人稱金字塔。” 
“你贏了,”那位英國人說,“沒有哪個房子能超過那個了。” 
千真萬確。世界上最古老的房子就是埃及的金字塔——為死人造的房子。為什么最古老的房子是為死人建造的呢?那五千年前建造這種房子的人,他們當年居住的房子又在哪里呢? 
那些房子在很久,很久以前,就已灰飛煙滅了。原因是這樣的:那時的人一般有指望也只活到五十歲左右。他們用木頭或土磚蓋房子,住到死的時候,木屋腐爛了,土磚也歸回塵土了。但他們卻指望死后長久存在,所以如果是國王,他就為自己建造死后的住房。他建造這房子以便一直維持到最后的審判日。 
要知道,埃及人在基督誕生幾百年前就已經相信死而復活了。他們相信他們的尸體終有復活的一天,因此,要維持到那一天,他們就用石頭來建造金字塔,并且對尸體作防腐處理——就是說,把它們制作成我們所稱的木乃伊——也能保存到那一天。如今,金字塔在埃及依然屹立,但曾經在里面的木乃伊卻消失不見了。他們或被盜走,或被運走放進了博物館——在博物館里,任何人,甚至每一個人都能一飽眼福,盡管這座墳墓建造者的初衷是使其尸體在審判日到來之前都不受打擾。我們不大在意自己死后到底怎樣埋葬,在哪埋葬。如今甚至國王和女王都是埋在地下,上面立一個墓碑,或者埋在一個簡陋的墳墓里。 
埃及的統(tǒng)治者們在尼羅河沿岸總共建造了一百多座金字塔,而最大的一座是由基奧普斯王在基督誕生三千多年前建造的。它至今大約已有五千多年歷史了。這座金字塔差不多有五百英尺高。確切地說,它本來高四百八十英尺,但由于頂部塌掉一部分,現(xiàn)在只有四百五十一英尺了。盡管如此,它仍然是目前世界上最大的石頭建筑——一座石山。 
基奧普斯金字塔是建造在一塊堅硬的天然石基上的。但由于當時附近沒有可供建造金字塔的巖石,所以不得不從采石場運來,近的有五十里路程,遠的甚至有五百里。有的石塊甚至比一輛滿載的貨物車還要重,需要花費好幾年時間才能把這些石塊運到金字塔工地。 
知道嗎?那時沒有機器——沒有滑車,沒有起重機,沒有軌道,沒有卡車,沒有發(fā)動機,更沒有其他什么機器發(fā)明——不像我們現(xiàn)在有升降和運載大型貨物的工具,可以單靠純機械外力運輸每一塊石料。那時候,重物搬運全靠人力,幾百個人在前面拉,幾百個人在后面推,這樣來把石料搬運到目的地。當時金字塔旁可能事先修筑了一條路,用以拖運石塊。據(jù)推測,基奧普斯金字塔花費了二十年左右的時間,動用了十萬名勞工才得以建成。 
金字塔的外部在剛建成時表面平滑、細膩——或許是因為大量使用了不同顏色的大理石,可是沒多久,這些外部拋光的大理石卻慘遭偷盜,被偷運作了其他建筑材料,導致現(xiàn)在金字塔的側面粗糙不堪,出現(xiàn)不規(guī)則的石階。每一級石階都有好幾英尺高,從任何一面你都可以輕而易舉地拾級而上,爬上金字塔頂端。 
我們把基奧普斯金字塔稱作大金字塔。如果我們像切奶酪一樣把這座金字塔從中間切開的話,你將會看到三個小房間緊緊相依,而且還有過道通往每個房間。其余的部分就是堅硬的巖石了,見圖60-1。 
最頂端的房子用以放置國王的木乃伊。為了保證頂端石頭的重量不會壓垮盛放國王遺體的房間,于是就用石頭把頂端建成五層,層層相疊,中間留出空間,最上層呈斜坡狀。而連接房屋和金字塔側面的兩條向上傾斜的通道是兩個通風口。國王房間的下面是王后的房間,再往下即金字塔的地下室或地基里的房間,或許空無一物。這曾一度成為大金字塔的一個謎團,但如今此謎團已被解開。如圖所示,該金字塔只有一條通道通向外界。這條通道從側邊岔開一條秘密小道,通往國王和王后的房間。由這條通道一直往下就到達那間空屋?;鶌W普斯害怕自己和王后死后埋葬此地時,他的敵人會偷走他們的木乃伊,在最后審判日阻止他們的肉體復活。所以讓人埋葬他和王后之后,把每一條通道都塞滿石頭,并掩蓋好每一個出口,這樣就沒人知道如何找到他們了。 
基奧普斯盤算萬一出口真的被人發(fā)現(xiàn)了,所以就把通道一直挖到地下室,這條筆直的通道會把人一直往下帶,越帶越偏,這樣就找不到另外那條通往國王和王后房間.的密道了。即使最終到達那間空屋,卻一無所獲——就像是愚人節(jié)開的玩笑。 
盡管基奧普斯挖空心思采取了萬無一失的預防措施,以防被人找到他的藏身處,但所有的通道還是被后人發(fā)現(xiàn)了,房間被一一打開,木乃伊也被挪走——被誰挪走,挪到哪里,卻無人知曉——這簡直就是拿基奧普斯開玩笑! 
如我所述,盡管目前現(xiàn)存的金字塔有一百多座,但并不是每一座都是真的按金字塔形狀而建造的。也就是說,并不是所有的金字塔都呈三角形。有些金字塔的底端也并不那么傾斜,可能是建筑師后來改變了主意,建到上方開始加劇傾斜。法老在建造金字塔的時候也許正病危,害怕自己在金字塔竣工前就要駕崩,所以加快了進度。在某些金字塔的內部,側邊有一些巨大的臺階彎彎曲曲地向上蜿蜒?;蛟S法老只是希望自己的金字塔能與眾有所不同。還有的法老也許是比較貧困,他們的金字塔由磚塊而不是巖石建成。 
在沙漠中緊緊佇立的三座大金字塔依然威嚴而神圣,穿越了千古,還將流芳百世。它的壯麗與威嚴讓觀賞者震撼。 
龐大不等于雄偉。龐大也可能面目可憎。但是金字塔成了人類歷史的豐碑,實現(xiàn)了人類建造堅固持久建筑物的愿望,宣告了當時建筑家們的成功。金字塔也是這樣一座豐碑,證明了埃及人死后可以復活的信念。掩卷沉思,歷史的豐碑雖然豎立了,但蕓蕓眾生卻在這兒繁衍生息,生老病死,接著是一批又一批的生命在這重演,來了又走了,而金字塔卻佇立依然,這不得不讓我們感嘆生命的短暫,敬畏永恒之漫長。而這永恒,就是藝術。 
所有的金字塔都是墳墓,但墳墓不一定都是金字塔。也就是說,有些墳墓壓根兒連金字塔的皮毛都沾不上,只不過是一些帶有小平頂?shù)氖ㄖT了。而且,在尼羅河西岸有一些墳墓只不過是在石崖上鑿出的洞窟。這些石墓開鑿在尼羅河西岸,好使墓口朝東,向著升起的太陽。埃及人的墳墓毫無例外都是這樣設計的。他們相信,只有墳墓面朝太陽升起的東方,太陽神在最后審判日那天才可以喚醒沉睡的亡靈,就像初升的太陽在早晨把陽光射進東邊的窗戶會照醒沉睡者一樣。 
圖60-2是尼羅河西岸著名的石窟墓之一——貝尼哈桑墓。 
特別有趣的是,墓的正面有兩根圓柱,這兩根圓柱是從同一塊石頭開鑿出來的。而金字塔形狀的墳墓一般不用柱子。 
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