36小時玩轉法國斯特拉斯堡

Have you been naughty or nice? A self-proclaimed“Christmas Capital” — thanks to one of the oldestand largest Christmas markets in Europe —Strasbourg welcomes the virtuous and vice-lovingalike to its December citywide extravaganza of giftbazaars, concerts, lights and mulled wine. But thecity is hardly a holiday novelty. Nestled alongFrance’s border with Germany, Strasbourg has beenfawned over and fought over for centuries by thetwo nations, ping-ponging back and forth beforereturning to France at the end of World War II. Theresult is a fetching Franco-Teutonic core of cobbled traffic-free lanes, canals, half-timberedhouses and spires where you can fill both your belly (with copious rustic Alsatian dishes) andyour brain (with impressive art museums). Toss in the seat of the European Parliament, alively bar scene and some winningly repurposed historical buildings — now elegant hotels andgastronomic havens — and you have an international city with year-round appeal.最近你表現(xiàn)怎樣?淘氣了沒有?因擁有歐洲最古老、規(guī)模最大的圣誕市場之一而自稱“圣誕之都”(Christmas Capital)的斯特拉斯堡向各方游客張開臂膀，歡迎大家探訪12月遍及全城的禮品集市、音樂演出、圣誕燈光和香濃美酒，不管你是好孩子還是壞孩子。但除了新奇假期以后，這個城市還有很多好玩的東西。斯特拉斯堡坐落在德法邊境，歷史上德法兩國為它的歸屬發(fā)生過多次爭斗，四個回合以后，斯特拉斯堡在“二戰(zhàn)”結束前歸入法國。這段歷史的直接后果，就是今日兼具法蘭西和日耳曼特色的迷人城市風情。這里既有鋪滿卵石、只適合步行的小巷，也有縱橫交織的運河，還有半木結構的房屋和各種尖頂建筑——在那些建筑中，你可以用分量十足的阿爾薩斯美食充實自己的腸胃，也可以用令人驚艷的藝術博物館充實你的大腦。作為歐洲議會所在地，斯特拉斯堡擁有活力四射的酒吧文化，還有許多改建為優(yōu)雅旅館和高端飯店的歷史建筑，這個國際都市一年四季都有別樣的魅力。

 

 

Friday星期五1. Scenic History | 4 p.m.1、觀景懷古游 | 下午4點Over the centuries here inStrasbourg, Gutenberg invented the printing press, a local military officer wrote the Frenchnational anthem and the young Goethe wrote and wrote. These and other tidbits form thenarrative of “Strasbourg, Over Twenty Centuries of History,” a scenic Batorama boat tour thatcircles Strasbourg’s Grand Île, a Unesco World Heritage site, and proceeds upriver toinstitutions of the European Commission. Passing grassy banks, you’ll ogle architecturalmasterworks like the Romanesque Église St. Paul, the flamboyant neo-Gothic Lycée desPontonniers and the silvery postmodern European Court of Human Rights, animated bymultilanguage commentary. Adults 12.50 euros, or $15 at $1.20 to the euro.在斯特拉斯堡數(shù)百年的歷史中，古騰堡發(fā)明了印刷術，一位當?shù)剀姽賱?chuàng)作了法國國歌，年輕的歌德在這里專注寫作。諸如此類的歷史點滴形成了文化游船之旅“斯特拉斯堡，20個世紀之歷史”的解說詞。這個旅行路線會圍著斯特拉斯堡知名景觀——聯(lián)合國教科文組織認可的世界文化遺產大島(Grand Île)前行，接著逆流而上到達歐盟委員會。沿著綠草如茵的河岸，你會看到很多建筑學的杰作，比如羅馬風格的圣喬治教堂(Église St. Paul)、夸張新哥特風格的龐特尼爾高中(Lycée des Pontonniers)、銀色后現(xiàn)代風格的歐洲人權法院(European Court of HumanRights)。游覽中，多國語言的解說詞讓旅行更加有趣。成年人12.50歐元，按照歐元兌美元1.20的匯率合15美元。2. ­Canals and Towers | 5:30 p.m.2、運河與尖塔 | 下午5:30Strolling past gingerbread-stylemansions in the Petite France neighborhood, you half expect to glimpse Hansel and Gretelscurrying across the cobblestones. A web of lanes, canals, narrow bridges, ivy-draped walls andwrought-iron streetlamps, the storybook atmosphere invites meandering. Place du QuartierBlanc leads to medieval stone towers and Barrage Vauban, a 17th-century defensivefortification resembling a covered stone bridge. In leafy Place Benjamin Zix, La Corde à Lingecafe offers lovely views of the canals and classic half-timbered houses. A Café Alsacien (7.50euros) — spiked with Gewürztraminer eau-de-vie — warms body and spirit.在“小法蘭西”(PetiteFrance)社區(qū)走過姜餅屋風格的房屋，你會自覺身處格林童話《亨舍爾與格雷琴》(Hansel and Gretel)的場景中，暗中期待亨舍爾與格雷琴在卵石小道匆匆跑過。細密繁復的街巷、運河和窄橋，爬滿常青藤的墻壁，鑄鐵材質的街燈，營造出故事書一般的氛圍，令人流連忘返。從白四方廣場(Place du Quartier Blanc)出發(fā)，可到達中世紀的石頭尖塔和沃邦大壩(Barrage Vauban)。沃邦大壩是座17世紀的防御工事，看起來像一座覆有頂棚的石橋。在綠葉婆娑的本杰明奇克斯廣場(Place Benjamin Zix)，晾衣繩(La Corde à Linge)咖啡館能夠看美妙的運河風光，還有經(jīng)典的半木結構房屋。一份阿爾薩斯式套餐(7.50歐元)加上一杯Gewürztraminer白蘭地，會瞬間溫暖你的身體和心靈。3. ­A Galloping Success | 8 p.m.3、馬到成功 | 晚上8點Food loversand jockeys alike will appreciate Brasserie Les Haras, an 18th-century horse stable that wasrenovated and reopened in 2013 by a dream team of designers and restaurateurs. Thedramatic two-level space was decorated in autumnal colors by the Jouin Manku firm — knownfor designing restaurants for Alain Ducasse — while the menu was overseen by the chef MarcHaeberlin, whose Auberge de L’Ill restaurant to the south has three Michelin stars. Appetizersinclude warm smoked eel and foie gras with fruit chutney, while main dishes offer aMediterranean-Mideast touch, such as the succulent, smoky-sweet shank of lamb withcinnamon, cumin and other souk spices. A three-course dinner for two runs about 90 euros,without wine.吃貨和騎馬愛好者都會喜歡馬廄酒館(Brasserie Les Haras)。這家小店設在18世紀的一座馬廄里，2013年經(jīng)過一群設計師和餐飲企業(yè)家的改造以后重新開業(yè)。飯店充滿張力的兩層空間以秋天色調為主的裝修，設計師來自Jouin Manku的事務所，而巴黎Alain Ducasse飯店的設計師也來自這家。菜單由名廚馬克·哈伊伯林(Marc Haeberlin)監(jiān)督打造——此人在城南還擁有一家米其林三星飯店Auberge de L’Ill。開胃菜是熱乎乎的熏鰻魚、鵝肝醬和水果酸辣醬。主菜通常是地中海和中東特色，比如肥嫩多汁、口味香甜的烤羊腿，搭配月桂、孜然和其他中東香料。包括三道菜的二人晚餐約90歐元，不含酒水。4. Booze and Bowlers | 10:30 p.m.4、美酒和圓頂禮帽 | 晚上10:30Strasbourg worships beer. Au Fût et à Mesure providesa novel means of sampling local and other Continental brands, courtesy of credit cards thatyou deploy at automated self-service taps scattered around the small, neo-industrial hangout.Fill one with credit and then fill your mug with Alsatian suds like Queue de Charrue (3.75euros), a crisp, spicy blond brew made with spring water and barley. Chase them with a DirtyDuck (Cognac, Licor 43, ginger beer, Perrier, mint; 11 euros) or one of the dozens of whiskeysat nearby Code Bar, a dimly lighted nook with bowler hats for lampshades.斯特拉斯堡崇拜啤酒。“鼓和天秤”酒館(Au Fût et à Mesure)提供一種新奇的手段，讓大家品嘗當?shù)睾推渌麣W陸品牌的酒水?？臻g略小、新工業(yè)風格裝修的酒館里安裝了許多水龍頭，顧客自助品酒時可直接在龍頭上刷信用卡消費。插卡，然后將你的酒杯裝滿泡沫豐富的阿爾薩斯美酒，比如每杯3.75歐元的尾犁(Queue de Charrue)，一種脆爽辛辣的金色啤酒，用泉水和大麥釀制而成。接下來，嘗一杯“臟鴨子”(Dirty Duck，由法國干邑、Licor 43、姜汁啤酒、沛綠雅礦泉水和薄荷調配而成，11歐元)或在附近“符號吧”(Code Bar)的十多種威士忌中選一種。代碼吧設在一個燈光昏暗的角落，用圓頂禮帽做燈罩。Saturday星期六5. Go Underground | 10 a.m.5、走進地下 | 上午10點Sure, everyone in France still raves about the country’s 2010 vintages. Butthey’ve never tried the Alsatian white from 1472. Tucked in a vast barrel in Cave Historiquesdes Hospices de Strasbourg, the world’s oldest wine reveals hints of vanilla, honey, hazelnutand spice — at least according to tasting notes from 1944, when the keg was last tapped forconsumption. It’s one of many enormous barrels stored in the hospice’s centuries-old cellars,which lie beneath the grounds of Strasbourg’s municipal hospital. Most are recent vintages fromregional wine­makers who have been granted the honor of aging some of their wines in thevenerable kegs. The adjacent boutique sells the bottled versions, from pinot gris to riesling topinot noir.當然，所有法國人都在贊美該國2010年份的葡萄。但他們從未嘗過1472年的阿爾薩斯白葡萄酒。藏在斯特拉斯堡老人院的歷史酒窖(Cave Historiques des Hospices de Strasbourg)中，這批世界最古老的葡萄酒略帶香草、蜂蜜、榛果和香料的滋味，至少1944年的品酒記錄這樣認為——那一年這批酒桶最后一次打開龍頭讓人品嘗。這個古老的酒窖位于斯特拉斯堡市醫(yī)院的地下，窖中藏有數(shù)不清的酒桶。目前大多數(shù)藏酒都來自本地的葡萄酒制造商，他們有幸將自己的葡萄放入這些尊貴的木桶發(fā)酵。隔壁的精品店出售瓶裝版本的葡萄酒，從灰皮諾、雷司令到黑皮諾都有。6. Watch the Clock | 11:30 a.m.6、觀賞鐘表 | 晚上11:30Has your time on Earth been well spent? Existential questions arise when beholding thetowering astronomical clock inside Strasbourg’s iconic medieval Notre Dame cathedral.Constructed in the 16th century and now running on a mechanism from the 1800s, themultistory, many-tiered clock is outfitted with biblical automatons, Zodiac imagery, elementalmotifs, religious statues and moving dials. At 12:30 p.m. every day, an angel strikes a bell, andanother turns over an hourglass. An old man passes before Death, who clangs a bell 12 timeswith a bone. The 12 apostles pass before Christ, while a rooster beats his wings. Then, finally,Christ offers a gesture of peace. Tickets (2 euros) for the pageant (preceded by a film) aresold from 11:30 a.m. to noon inside the south door. Prepare to queue.你珍惜此生時光了嗎?目視斯特拉斯堡的地標建筑、中世紀風格的圣母大教堂那高聳入云的鐘樓時，你心中會升起許多存在主義的疑問。這座建于16世紀的鐘樓在1800年代更新了機械組，至今仍在正常運行。鐘樓有好幾層高，多座尖塔直沖云霄，樓面裝飾著圣經(jīng)場景、星座圖案、哲學主題、宗教雕塑，還有時刻移動的指針。每天下午12:30，一個天使敲響鈴鐺，另一個天使就將沙漏翻過來。一位老人走過死神，用一根骨頭來更換鈴鐺。12門徒走過耶穌，同時一只公雞拍打翅膀。最后，耶穌做出一個和平的手勢。在南門內，每天上午11:30 到正午會出售花車盛會的票(2歐元)，盛會之前會有一場電影。請做好排隊的準備。7. Surrogate Grandmother | 1 p.m.7、代理祖母 | 下午1點If you don’t have an Alsatian grandmother to cook you boiled beef withhorseradish or riesling-braised chicken, Fink’Stuebel is a warm, wood-beamed substitute. Youmight start with the lush, buttery onion and ham tart before trying a classic choucroutegarnie: mounds of zesty sauerkraut topped with a plethora of pork: a large leg joint, boiledand grilled sausages and multiple slices of meat. Dessert might be waffles in chocolate sauce ora cherry-plum crumble with schnapps syrup and whipped cream. If a food coma sets in,upstairs the restaurant rents guest rooms. A three-course meal for two, without drinks, runsabout 75 euros.如果你沒有一個阿爾薩斯祖母為你烹制加了山葵的燉牛肉或雷司令燉煮的雞肉，溫暖而裝滿木梁的Fink’Stuebel飯店是個不錯的替代品。也許，應該以味道豐厚的黃牛洋蔥和火腿撻作為開胃菜，然后嘗試經(jīng)典的德國腌菜：一撮滋味豐富的泡菜，下面放著一大堆豬肉：有大塊的腿關節(jié)、先煮后烤的香腸，還有各種肉片。甜點可能是加了巧克力醬的華夫餅，或加了櫻桃和里子的面包碎，搭配烈酒糖漿和生奶油。酒足飯飽之后如果感覺昏昏欲睡，樓上就有客房出租。包括三道主菜的二人份正餐大約75歐元，不含酒水。8. ThreeMuseums in One | 3 p.m.8、三合一的博物館 | 下午3點Designed by a royal architect, the 18th-century Palais Rohan is a masterwork. But the real gems are inside the magisterial edifice,which houses museums devoted to archaeology, decorative arts and fine arts. The latter isthe marquee attraction, thanks to the stellar assortment of Italian Renaissance paintings, whichinclude Correggio’s haunting, surreal “Judith and the Servant” and Raphael’s richly colored andfinely detailed “Portrait of a Young Woman.” Dutch and Flemish painters also make a strongshowing, from the plump cherubs of Rubens to scenes of social life by Pieter de Hooch.Admission 6.50 euros.由一位皇家建筑師設計并在18世紀建成的羅翰宮(Palais Rohan)是個建筑學的杰作。但真正的寶貝卻在宮殿里面，那設于室內、分別專注于考古、裝飾藝術和美術的三家博物館。美術博物館尤為引人，因為里面有許多意大利文藝復興時代的繪畫，包括柯勒喬(Correggio)陰暗驚悚、超現(xiàn)實主義風格的《朱迪斯與仆人》(Judith and the Servant)和拉斐爾色彩豐富、細節(jié)精美的《一位年輕女人的肖像》(Portrait of a Young Woman)。荷蘭和弗蘭德畫家也有大量作品入選，包括魯本斯胖乎乎的小天使到彼得·德·霍赫(Pieter de Hooch)筆下的社交場景。門票6.50歐元。9. The Home Team | 5 p.m.9、家族團隊 | 下午5點Whether your home is classy, kooky or retro, a design boutique awaits in the Rue desJuifs area. Fou du Roi brims with classic Verner Panton chairs and Tom Dixon lighting, as wellas French products like spice-scented candles from Gilles Dewavrin. Samurai-sword umbrellas,serving dishes embossed with Napoleon’s face and waving solar-powered mini-statues of thepope form part of the kitschy collection at Tadzio. In Polychrome, a mishmash of bright plasticfurniture, vinyl LPs and funky glassware hearkens back to the ’60s and ’70s.不管你家的裝修風格是古典、怪異還是懷舊，在Rue des Juifs 街區(qū)都能找到類似的店面。Fou du Roi商店充滿了古典的維納·潘通(Verner Panton)椅子和湯姆·迪克森(Tom Dixon)燈具，還有各種法國物品，比如吉勒·德瓦文(GillesDewavrin)家散發(fā)胡椒氣味的蠟燭。貌似武士長劍的雨傘，有拿破侖肖像浮雕的餐盤，Tadzio商店還有多種媚俗的小擺設，包括形狀波浪起伏、太陽能充電的教皇小雕像。Polychrome商店出售色彩明艷的塑料家具、黑膠唱片和令人憶起六七十年代的奇特玻璃制品。10. Rising Stairs, Rising Star | 8 p.m. 10、樓梯之上，新星升起 | 晚上8點Which floor, please? Opened in 2012 and awarded its first Michelin star this year,the fast-rising 1741 restaurant occupies an early-19th-century mansion whose stairwellelevates guests through four levels of small salons decorated in Baroque boudoir style. Thefood is elevated too, from the foie gras-larded table butter to desserts like honey-soaked figpurée with panna cotta and honey ice cream. In between you might find a foie gras trifecta (inglazed form, as nougat and mixed with powdery Parmesan cheese) or slices of rare venisonwith tiny mushrooms, raspberries and beets. Four courses cost 89 euros per person.請問您去哪層樓?2012年開業(yè)的飯店“1741”今年已經(jīng)獲得了第一顆米其林之星，不愧是餐飲界的新秀。這家飯店設在一座19世紀早期的建筑里，顧客需要走過四層樓梯并途徑幾個巴洛克閨房風格的店面才能到達。當然飯店的美食也很高端，比如摻有鵝肝醬的餐桌黃油、搭配甜蜜無花果醬的奶油布丁和蜂蜜冰淇淋。有時候還能發(fā)現(xiàn)混搭產品，比如三合一鵝肝醬(與杏仁糖和粉狀的帕馬森奶酪摻在一起，做成抹醬的狀態(tài))，以及搭配小蘑菇、覆盆子和甜菜的罕見鹿肉片。包括四道菜的一餐，人均89歐元。11. Bathtubs and Barrels | 10:30 p.m.11、浴缸和木桶 | 晚上10:30If you fancy a drink in the bathroom, step into Wawa, one of the hip newspots around Place St.-Nicolas-aux-Ondes. A clawfoot tub and a disconnected, disusedcommode are among the seating options in this trashy-chic design haven. Clearly some­onehad a few absinthes (5 euros) when drawing up the plans. More rustic and refined, Le XX, awine bar, opened this year with tables made from barrels, a cozy lounge nook and a list of Gallicvintages that includes a dense, honeyish grand cru Gewürztraminer from Kaefferkopf Simonis(6.50 euros a glass).如果你喜歡在浴室里喝一杯，就請走入Wawa酒吧，這家位于Place St.-Nicolas和aux-Ondes交叉口的體育酒吧是市內最新最酷的去處之一。飯店風格既頹廢又時髦，四爪浴缸和拆掉管道的廢棄洗臉臺都是可供客人選擇的座位。顯然在繪制室內裝修圖的時候，設計師喝了過多的苦艾酒(5歐元)。相比之下，今年開業(yè)的葡萄酒吧Le XX裝修就更偏于鄉(xiāng)村風格，也更加精致。它采用木頭酒桶做餐桌，氣氛輕松，供應各種法國葡萄酒，比如來自Kaefferkopf Simonis酒莊的低度白葡萄酒(每杯6.50歐元)，質感濃稠、略帶蜂蜜口感。Sunday星期日12. Modern Arp | 11 a.m.12、以阿爾普為代表的現(xiàn)當代藝術 | 上午11點“Artis a fruit that grows in man ­” begins a quote by the artist Jean Arp — a Strasbourg native —stenciled inside the Musée d’Art Moderne et Contemporain. If so, then the museum is ablooming orchard indeed. The modern art collection is stronger than the contemporaryholdings (one flight up), so begin with Rodin’s iconic “The Thinker” (1904), then admire thestrong lines and bold color blocks of Picasso’s “Nude Gathering Flowers” (1958) beforethreading through the rooms of works by Sisley, Gauguin, Juan Gris, Magritte, Kandinsky, MaxErnst and other heavyweights. Local talents like Arp and the illustrator Gustave Doré get roomsof their own, highlighted by Doré's massive, dynamic, mystical “Christ Leaving the Praetorium” (1867-72). Before taking your own leave, take a last look at Strasbourg from the rooftopterrace of the museum’s Art Café. Then bid the city au revoir — or, as they say in German, aufWiedersehen. Admission 7 euros.“藝術是人類身上結出的果實。”阿爾薩斯本地人、藝術家讓·阿爾普(Jean Arp)的這句名言，鐫刻在現(xiàn)當代藝術博物館的墻上。如果他的話屬實，這家博物館就是座碩果累累的果園。現(xiàn)代藝術的展品比當代藝術數(shù)量更多，位置也在后者的樓上。所以，讓我們的旅行從羅丹的代表作《思想者》(1904年)開始，然后欣賞畢加索《裸女采花》(Nude Gathering Flowers，1958年)粗獷的線條和大膽的色彩。接下來，仔細觀摩希思黎(Sisley)、高更(Gauguin)、胡安·格里斯(Juan Gris)、瑪格里特(Magritte)、康定斯基(Kandinsky)、馬克斯·恩斯特(Max Ernst)和其他重量級藝術家的作品。阿爾普、古斯塔夫·多雷(Gustave Doré)等當?shù)厮囆g家都有各自的展廳，多雷的畫作《耶穌離開總督府》(Christ Leavingthe Praetorium，1867-1872年)宏大磅礴，充滿神秘氣息。離開博物館之前，請到屋頂露臺的藝術咖啡館Art Café俯瞰整個斯特拉斯堡。然后用法語“au revoir”(再見)告別這個城市，或者用德語“aufWiedersehen”。門票7歐元。LODGING 住宿Graffalgar (17, rue Déserte, 33-3-88-24-98-40;graffalgar.com) opened this year near the main train station with 19 simple rooms painted invarying colorful styles by 19 street artists. Doubles from 90 euros.Graffalgar(17, rue Déserte, 33-3-88-24-98-40;graffalgar.com)是今年開張的一家旅館，位于該市主火車站附近，有19間簡單的客房，內飾由19位街頭藝術家繪制而成，色彩鮮艷，風格各異。雙人房90歐元起。For stately, aristocraticambience in the historical Petite France neighborhood, Hôtel Le Bouclier d’Or & Spa (1, ruedu Bouclier, 33-3-88-13-73-55; lebouclierdor.com) is a two-year-old addition. Many of the 22rooms feature wood beams, parquet floors and antique-style furnishings. Doubles from 194euros.如果你想在老城區(qū)小法蘭西入住一家華麗高檔酒店，請到金盾溫泉酒店(Hôtel Le Bouclier d’Or& Spa;1, rue du Bouclier, 33-3-88-13-73-55; lebouclierdor.com)。酒店兩年前開張，22間客房都配有木梁、鑲木地板和精致家具。雙人房194歐元起。