冰島旅游那么火，要感謝金融危機(jī)和火山爆發(fā)

REYKJAVIK, Iceland — Iceland has discovered the secret to a booming tourist industry: First have a mammoth financial implosion, then an enormous volcanic explosion.

冰島雷克雅未克——冰島發(fā)現(xiàn)了令旅游業(yè)迅速發(fā)展的秘密：先來(lái)一場(chǎng)巨型金融大崩潰，再來(lái)一次超級(jí)火山大爆發(fā)。

The collapse of the Icelandic krona after the 2008 financial crisis transformed this Arctic island packed with 35 active volcanoes into a top destination by making it cheap for visitors.

2008年金融危機(jī)之后，冰島克朗出現(xiàn)暴跌，旅游者所需的費(fèi)用隨之下降，這個(gè)擁有35座活火山的北極島國(guó)因此成了頂級(jí)旅游勝地。

Two years later, Eyjafjallajokull erupted, spewing thick ash clouds into European skies. Millions of passengers were grounded for days and airlines suffered financial losses. But the explosion put Iceland on the map. The foreign news media descended on the island, beaming images around the world of spectacular landscapes, even as journalists struggled to pronounce the volcano’s name.

兩年后，埃亞菲拉約庫(kù)火山(Eyjafjallajokull)爆發(fā)了，把濃厚的火山灰云噴向歐洲的天空。幾天時(shí)間里，數(shù)百萬(wàn)旅客不能乘坐飛機(jī)，航空公司遭受了經(jīng)濟(jì)損失。但這場(chǎng)火山爆發(fā)卻令人們重新注意到冰島。外國(guó)新聞媒體爭(zhēng)相趕來(lái)，雖說(shuō)記者們費(fèi)了好大力氣才能拼出這座火山的名字，卻把壯麗景觀的圖像發(fā)往世界各地。

“Iceland has been saved by the crash and the eruption,” said Fridrik Palsson, who owns Hotel Ranga, a luxury resort just 19 miles from the slopes of Eyjafjallajokull, the 16-letter volcano that is often shortened to E-16 by foreigners. “I have never seen anything take off so fast,” he said.

“經(jīng)濟(jì)崩潰和火山爆發(fā)拯救了冰島，這樣快的發(fā)展速度我以前從沒(méi)見(jiàn)過(guò)，”朗高酒店(Hotel Ranga)的主人弗里德里克·帕爾松(Fridrik Palsson)說(shuō)，這家豪華酒店距離埃亞菲拉約庫(kù)的山坡只有19英里——有16個(gè)字母的火山名通常被外國(guó)人簡(jiǎn)稱(chēng)為E-16。

The combined effect of the catastrophes has been an invasion on a scale possibly unseen since Vikings raided the island hundreds of years ago. Tourists are expected to outnumber the local population of 330,000 by seven to one next year, according to official data. By comparison, last year visitors to France outnumbered the French by two to one.

兩場(chǎng)災(zāi)難的綜合效應(yīng)造成了自幾百年前維京人襲擊該島之后從未有過(guò)的大入侵。根據(jù)官方數(shù)據(jù)，明年旅游者的數(shù)量預(yù)計(jì)將達(dá)到該國(guó)33萬(wàn)人口的七倍。相比之下，去年參觀法國(guó)的旅游者僅僅是法國(guó)人的兩倍。

Tourism is now the island’s biggest industry, taking over from fishing and aluminum smelting, much as the financial sector did in the years before the crash.

如今，旅游業(yè)取代了捕魚(yú)和鋁礦冶煉，成了該島國(guó)最大的產(chǎn)業(yè)，就像經(jīng)濟(jì)崩潰前幾年的金融產(chǎn)業(yè)一樣。

The influx could be even higher following the rise of the Pirate Party. With its black pirate flag and anarchist leanings, it recently gained more seats in Parliament and even more attention, helping to burnish Iceland’s image as cool and alternative.

隨著海盜黨(Pirate Party)的崛起，旅游者可能還會(huì)繼續(xù)增加。這個(gè)黨以黑色的海盜旗為標(biāo)志，帶有無(wú)政府主義傾向，最近在議會(huì)獲得了更多的席位，也得到了更多關(guān)注，它有助于打造冰島酷炫與另類(lèi)形象。

The number of tourists has risen by as much as 30 percent every year for the last four years, according to Iceland’s Tourist Board. They brought in revenues of $3.2 billion in 2015, a third of the country’s export earnings. Tourism is the single biggest employer, and many Icelanders are pouring money into services and new construction.

根據(jù)冰島旅游局的統(tǒng)計(jì)，過(guò)去四年來(lái)，游客數(shù)量每年以30%的速度增加。2015年，他們?yōu)檫@個(gè)國(guó)家?guī)?lái)了32億美元的收入，占該國(guó)出口收入的1/3。旅游業(yè)成了冰島最大的工作機(jī)會(huì)提供者，許多冰島人都把資金投入到服務(wù)業(yè)和興建新建筑中去。

Mr. Palsson, who used to sell Iceland as a place to see the Northern Lights, employs an astronomer in his hotel. He has also invested in three expensive telescopes that are powerful enough for guests to see the rings on Saturn or the fuzzy glow of a distant dying star.

帕爾松曾經(jīng)宣傳過(guò)，冰島是看北極光的好地方，他為自己的酒店雇用了一個(gè)天文學(xué)家，還投資購(gòu)置了三個(gè)昂貴的望遠(yuǎn)鏡，性能強(qiáng)大到可以讓客人看清土星光環(huán)，或者遠(yuǎn)方某顆瀕死恒星的柔和光暈。

Landsbref, a fund management company that was spun off from one of three failed Icelandic banks, set up a $37 million tourism fund.

基金管理公司蘭德斯布里夫(Landsbref)的前身是三個(gè)破產(chǎn)的冰島銀行之一，如今它設(shè)立了一個(gè)3700萬(wàn)美元的旅游基金。

Reykjavik looks like a Scandinavian version of Singapore: compact, clean, orderly, and rich. Streets are lined with Crayola-color houses and Mercedes cars. Chic coffeehouses sell kale-and-date sandwiches, and play Ethiopian jazz. Restaurants offer inventive Nordic cuisine using local ingredients like puffin and shark. (One chef also proudly announced that Iceland now grows cucumbers, albeit in a greenhouse.)

雷克雅未克看上去很像斯堪的納維亞的新加坡：緊湊、潔凈、有序且富裕。街道兩旁排列著色彩如兒童畫(huà)般的房子，停靠著一輛輛梅賽德斯汽車(chē)。別致的咖啡館出售羽衣甘藍(lán)與椰棗制成的三明治，演奏著埃塞俄比亞爵士樂(lè)。餐廳提供使用海雀和鯊魚(yú)等本土食材的創(chuàng)新北歐美食。(一位廚師還自豪地宣布，冰島現(xiàn)在也能種植黃瓜了，雖然是在溫室里。)

The 101, a boutique hotel that was once an exclusive hangout for bankers (101 is also the city’s richest postal code), is now filled with tourists. In a possible dig at the hotel’s former denizens, a sculpture of what looked like a gray-suited banker hung on one wall, with a cryptic instruction, “Disconnect the battery, remove the rear hood and hinge brackets,” inscribed beneath it.

一家名叫101的精品酒店曾經(jīng)是銀行業(yè)人士專(zhuān)享的聚會(huì)之地(101也是這座城市最富有地帶的郵政編碼)，如今擠滿了游客?？赡苁菫榱宿揶砭频甑那白】蛡?，有面墻上掛著一座雕塑，看起來(lái)像是一個(gè)身穿灰色西裝的銀行家，下面還題著一則晦澀難解的說(shuō)明，“斷開(kāi)電池，去掉后引擎蓋和鉸鏈支架”。

Tourists come from as far as Hong Kong. They chase the Northern Lights. They scale glaciers. They dive in the Arctic Circle with puffins, go horseback riding or take helicopter tours listening to ethereal, whale-like sounds by the Icelandic band Sigur Ros. Fans of “Game of Thrones” flock to filming locations around the island, some, apparently, genuinely in search of Wildlings.

就連遠(yuǎn)在香港的游客都來(lái)到這里。他們追逐北極光。攀登冰川。和海鸚一起在北極圈潛水，騎馬，或乘坐直升機(jī)去聆聽(tīng)冰島樂(lè)隊(duì)Sigur Ros鯨魚(yú)般的空靈歌聲?！稒?quán)力的游戲》(Game of Thrones)的粉絲們蜂擁前往冰島周邊的拍攝地點(diǎn)，有些人則是真心實(shí)意地在尋找野人。

Outside the capital, thick white plumes of steam, which are harnessed for Iceland’s energy needs, rise in the sky, as if the earth were vaping. Hot springs are everywhere, even in people’s backyards.

首都郊外濃厚的白色蒸汽飄向天空，就好像泥土在蒸發(fā)。這種蒸汽被用來(lái)滿足冰島的能源需求。到處都是溫泉，甚至在民宅后院就有。

But there is growing concern that uncontrolled tourism is placing too large a burden on this small island. Housing prices and rents are rising quickly, forcing young people to live with their parents. Car rentals have tripled, clogging traffic. Littering and light pollution are spoiling parts of the landscape, many Icelanders say.

但是越來(lái)越多的人擔(dān)心，不加控制的旅游業(yè)正給這座小島造成太大負(fù)擔(dān)。房?jī)r(jià)和租金快速上漲，迫使年輕人與父母同住。汽車(chē)租賃漲了三倍，導(dǎo)致交通堵塞。很多冰島人稱(chēng)，垃圾和光污染正在破壞部分景觀。

“It’s like the city is not my city anymore,” Birgitta Jonsdottir, the leader of the Pirate Party, complained last month. “It’s like Disneyland downtown.”

“就好像這座城市不再是我的城市，”海盜黨(Pirate Party)領(lǐng)袖比吉塔·約恩斯多蒂爾(Birgitta Jonsdottir)上個(gè)月抱怨說(shuō)，“它就像迪士尼樂(lè)園(Disneyland)的市中心。”

A poll in October conducted by the national broadcaster RUV reported that 87 percent of Icelanders want the government to raise fees or taxes on tourists.

國(guó)家廣播電視網(wǎng)RUV今年10月進(jìn)行的一項(xiàng)民意調(diào)查顯示，87%的冰島人希望政府增加對(duì)游客的收費(fèi)或稅收。

The tourist boom is making some Icelanders uneasy. Another crash like the one that hit the banks is just a matter of time, and many said they are saving money or investing in hard assets.

旅游業(yè)的繁榮令有些冰島人感到不安。再出現(xiàn)一次金融危機(jī)只是時(shí)間問(wèn)題。很多人稱(chēng)，他們正在存錢(qián)或投資硬資產(chǎn)。

Pessimists say all it takes to prick the tourism bubble is a sudden drop in visitors, triggered by something like a financial crisis overseas or the adverse effects of Britain’s exit from the European Union.

悲觀主義者稱(chēng)，戳破旅游業(yè)泡沫只需要游客數(shù)量的突然下降，比如由于國(guó)外的金融危機(jī)或英國(guó)退出歐盟造成的負(fù)面影響。

“It’s happening all over again,” said Kristjan Asjaersson, 51, a cabdriver. During Iceland’s short-lived heyday, he recalled having to crisscross the island just to deliver fish caught by Icelandic billionaires — they had forgotten to pack their catch before flying off in their private jets.

“一切正在重演，”51歲的出租車(chē)司機(jī)克里斯蒂安·阿斯加森(Kristjan Asjaersson)說(shuō)。他回憶說(shuō)，在冰島短暫的繁榮時(shí)期，他不得不在島上穿梭，只是為了運(yùn)送冰島億萬(wàn)富翁捕的魚(yú)——他們?cè)诔俗饺孙w機(jī)飛走之前，忘了打包自己捕的魚(yú)。

“Too many people rely on tourism,” he said. “When tourist numbers fall, the economy will collapse again. I know it will happen. But I will be prepared.”

“太多人依賴(lài)于旅游業(yè)，”他說(shuō)。“游客數(shù)量下降后，經(jīng)濟(jì)會(huì)再次崩潰。我知道肯定會(huì)這樣。不過(guò)我會(huì)有所準(zhǔn)備。”