穿著的驕傲:百年中國(guó)時(shí)尚正在回歸

穿著的驕傲:百年中國(guó)時(shí)尚正在回歸

When Zhang Lingshan was a child, she would watch the Chinese period drama "Palace" on television, entranced by the characters' ancient clothing. The costumes were colorful and regal, long gowns embroidered with lotus flowers and dragons, topped with intricate headpieces.

當(dāng)張玲珊是個(gè)孩子的時(shí)候，她會(huì)在電視上看中國(guó)古裝劇《宮》，被劇中人物的古裝迷住了。服裝五彩繽紛，富麗堂皇，長(zhǎng)袍上繡著蓮花和龍，上面戴著復(fù)雜的頭飾。

She didn't know what these beautiful clothes were called -- only that they were from some distant past.

她不知道這些漂亮的衣服叫什么名字——只知道它們來(lái)自遙遠(yuǎn)的過(guò)去。

"When I saw it, I really liked it," she said. "They looked fairy-like, dreamy. I was completely drawn by the beauty of these clothes, and then eventually came to understand the culture of Hanfu, and I liked it more and more."

“當(dāng)我看到它的時(shí)候，我真的很喜歡，”她說(shuō)。“她們看起來(lái)像仙女，像夢(mèng)幻一般。我完全被這些衣服的美所吸引，然后逐漸了解了漢服文化，我越來(lái)越喜歡它。”

Now aged 19 and living in Beijing, Zhang is a member of China's growing "Hanfu" movement -- a renaissance of the ancient clothing traditionally worn by ethnic-majority Han Chinese before the Qing dynasty. The movement, which started in the early 2000s as a fringe subculture on online forums and websites, has now stepped out onto the streets.

現(xiàn)年19歲的張生活在北京，她是中國(guó)正在興起的“漢服”運(yùn)動(dòng)的一員。“漢服”是指清朝以前漢族的傳統(tǒng)服飾。這場(chǎng)運(yùn)動(dòng)始于21世紀(jì)初，是在線論壇和網(wǎng)站上的一種邊緣亞文化，現(xiàn)在已經(jīng)走上街頭。

Though it's still not mainstream, if you walk through major cities you may see a fan dressed in the sweeping robes, crossed collars and wide sleeves.

雖然這還不是主流，但如果你走在大城市里，你可能會(huì)看到一個(gè)粉絲穿著拖地的長(zhǎng)裙，有著交叉衣領(lǐng)和寬袖子。

There are Hanfu shops, designers and researchers, and even photography studios that rent out accessories and outfits.

這里有漢服店、設(shè)計(jì)師和研究人員，甚至還有出租配飾和服裝的攝影工作室。

Hanfu outfits cost anywhere from $30 to a few thousand dollars, depending on the quality. Sales have soared in recent years -- the Hanfu industry's total market value is estimated to be worth 1.09 billion yuan (about $154 million), according to state-run media China Daily.

根據(jù)質(zhì)量的不同，漢服的價(jià)格從30美元到幾千美元不等。據(jù)官方媒體《中國(guó)日?qǐng)?bào)》報(bào)道，近年來(lái)漢服銷售額飆升，漢服行業(yè)的總市值估計(jì)為人民幣10.9億元(約合1.54億美元)。

Tight-knit Hanfu communities and university clubs often meet up for themed activities like folk games or costume showings. Zhang and her friends sometimes visit places with ancient architecture, like Beijing's Forbidden City, where emperors once resided, to take photos in costume and post them on social media.

組織緊密的漢服社區(qū)和大學(xué)社團(tuán)經(jīng)常聚會(huì)，參加民間游戲或服裝展示等主題活動(dòng)。張和她的朋友們有時(shí)會(huì)去一些有古代建筑的地方，比如北京的故宮，那里曾經(jīng)是皇帝居住的地方，她們會(huì)拍一些穿著古裝的照片，然后發(fā)布到社交媒體上。

Chen Zhenbing, chairman of the China Hanfu Association, fell in love with the clothing when he was 16 and handmade his first Hanfu suit. He recalled holding a 2005 Hanfu event that only attracted about 50 attendees -- five years later, a similar event drew up to 500 people, he said.

中國(guó)漢服協(xié)會(huì)主席陳振兵16歲時(shí)愛上了漢服，并制作了自己的第一套漢服。他回憶起2005年舉辦的一場(chǎng)漢服活動(dòng)只吸引了大約50人參加，他說(shuō)，五年后，一場(chǎng)類似的活動(dòng)吸引了500人。

Nowadays, Hanfu events around the country can draw upwards of a thousand attendees.

如今，全國(guó)各地的漢服活動(dòng)可以吸引上千人參加。

He and many others see Hanfu as a way to celebrate Chinese culture and improve national self-esteem.

他和其他許多人將漢服視為頌揚(yáng)中國(guó)文化、提高民族自尊的一種方式。