巴黎的巧克力沙龍與天津的陰陽(yáng)音樂(lè)節(jié)

Where to Eat, and Where Dance It Off

巴黎的巧克力沙龍與天津的陰陽(yáng)音樂(lè)節(jié)

All of us may be trying desperately (or at least occasionally) to eat enough wild Alaskan salmon, leafy greens and quinoa salads. But let’s be honest; if we’re making the effort to pack a bag and book a flight in search of flavor, it’s going to be for something decadent.

我們大家可能會(huì)努力(至少也是偶爾)去吃很多阿拉斯加三文魚(yú)、綠葉蔬菜和藜麥沙拉。不過(guò)，咱們實(shí)話實(shí)說(shuō)吧，如果我們不辭辛苦地整理行裝、預(yù)訂機(jī)票去尋找美食，那一定是去找不健康的食品。

The Galway International Oyster and Seafood Festival in Ireland and the Salon du Chocolat in Paris are two more obvious choices for edible extravagance. Having just celebrated its 60th anniversary, the oyster festival has grown from a banquet for 30 to one of Ireland’s most celebrated events, with music, shucking competitions and historical tours marking the beginning of the oyster harvest (Sept. 25 to 27).

愛(ài)爾蘭的戈?duì)栱f國(guó)際牡蠣海鮮美食節(jié)和巴黎的巧克力沙龍是享用侈美食的兩個(gè)好選擇。牡蠣節(jié)剛慶祝完60周年紀(jì)念，它從一個(gè)30人的宴會(huì)發(fā)展成愛(ài)爾蘭最著名的活動(dòng)之一，包括音樂(lè)、剝殼大賽以及標(biāo)志著牡蠣收獲季開(kāi)始的歷史游覽(9月25日至27日)。

Salon du Chocolat hosts several events focused on the darling of indulgences, this year in Japan, Belgium, Russia and England; all amuse-bouches to the main course in Paris, a virtual fondue pot of international confectioners and pastry chefs mixing, tasting, building towers out of, and designing clothing with cacao (Oct. 28 to Nov. 1).

巧克力沙龍通常會(huì)舉辦好幾場(chǎng)活動(dòng)，全是圍繞著這種人們用來(lái)寵愛(ài)自己的食品。今年的活動(dòng)將在日本、比利時(shí)、俄羅斯和英格蘭舉辦;巴黎將展示全套巧克力大餐，從小點(diǎn)心到主菜應(yīng)有僅有。國(guó)際糖果商和糕點(diǎn)大廚們會(huì)在這些活動(dòng)中攪拌、品嘗巧克力，用可可建大樓、設(shè)計(jì)服裝(10月28日至11月1日)。

But some of the world’s richest treats aren’t quite as refined. Take, for instance, the “doppelbock,” a doubly strong version of an already thick and malty beer first brewed by the Paulaner monks in Munich in the 17th century. Oddly, it was brewed during Lent, when fasting allowed only the consumption of liquids. The more potent the beer, the more nourishment they got, or so the story goes, and the local flock was happy to follow their example.

不過(guò)，世界上味道最濃郁的一些美食未必都這么精致。比如雙倍濃郁的doppelbock柏龍啤酒。柏龍啤酒本就是口味厚重的麥芽啤酒，最初是17世紀(jì)慕尼黑修士們釀造的。奇怪的是，它是在大齋節(jié)(Lent)期間釀造的——大齋節(jié)期間禁食，只允許飲用液體。啤酒越濃郁，就越有營(yíng)養(yǎng)，或者至少據(jù)說(shuō)是這樣的，所以當(dāng)?shù)厝撕軜?lè)意效仿修士們的榜樣。

Today, the tradition is celebrated during Starkbierzeit, or “strong beer time,” the first of Germany’s spring beer festivals (Feb. 27 to March 15). It begins each year at the Nockherberg brewery’s Paulaner beer hall and garden, former home to those crafty friars, with the tapping of the first keg of Salvator, the original brew, just as strong. Look for other varieties, as well as oompah bands and other entertainment, at any of Munich’s abundant breweries.

如今，人們?cè)跐馄【乒?jié)(Starkbierzeit)上慶祝這一傳統(tǒng)，它是德國(guó)的第一個(gè)春季啤酒節(jié)(2月27日至3月15日)。每年，它在 Nockherberg啤酒廠的柏龍啤酒屋和啤酒花園開(kāi)始，當(dāng)年那些手藝精湛的修士們就住在這里。啤酒節(jié)的第一個(gè)活動(dòng)是擰開(kāi)第一桶Salvator啤酒，也就是最初釀造的那種啤酒，它依然濃郁。你可以在慕尼黑的眾多啤酒廠尋找其他口味和品牌的啤酒，以及各種娛樂(lè)節(jié)目。

The New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival may have mile-long trains of crawfish bread and stuffed-mirliton, but the gumbos and gravies of the South Louisiana Blackpot Festival & Cook-Offin Lafayette win crowds with personality. Each pot entered in the festival’s 10th anniversary cook-off this year (Oct. 23 to 24) represents centuries of Acadian and Cajun history, family recipes tweaked and tooled over the years to compete for modern palates.

新奧爾良爵士樂(lè)與遺產(chǎn)節(jié)上也許會(huì)有一英里長(zhǎng)的小龍蝦面包和填餡佛手瓜;拉斐特的南路易斯安那黑陶罐和烹飪大賽則以獨(dú)特的秋葵湯和肉汁吸引游客。今年，這個(gè)美食節(jié)將迎來(lái)十周年紀(jì)念(10月23日至24日)。烹飪賽上的每個(gè)陶罐都代表著阿加底亞人和路易斯安那州法國(guó)后裔幾百年的歷史，這些家庭菜譜在漫長(zhǎng)的歲月中不斷演變，以迎合現(xiàn)代人的口味。

Crowds gather at competitors’ pots on Saturday evenings while the judges decide which wins the day in five categories: gravies, gumbos, cracklins (or “gratons”), jambalayas and desserts (yes, pies, cobblers and even cinnamon rolls cooked in cast iron).

周六晚上，觀眾聚集在參賽者的陶罐前，等待裁判們宣布當(dāng)天的贏家，競(jìng)賽分為以下五個(gè)類別：肉汁、秋葵湯、豬油渣、什錦飯和甜品(是的，派和水果餡餅，甚至包括用鑄鐵鍋?zhàn)龅娜夤鹁?。

Americana plays throughout, from the region’s best zydeco to Appalachian bluegrass, topped off with an accordion contest and square dancing lessons. And in the campgrounds, where most out-of-towners settle in for the night, there’s more grilled boudin sausage and fried catfish to be shared, most likely along with a fiddled fais-do-do from a neighboring tent

美國(guó)傳統(tǒng)貫穿活動(dòng)全程，從該地區(qū)最著名的柴迪科舞到阿巴拉契亞藍(lán)草音樂(lè)，還有手風(fēng)琴大賽和方塊舞課程。大部分外地人在露營(yíng)地過(guò)夜，那里有烤豬血香腸和煎鯰魚(yú)供大家分享，很可能從旁邊帳篷里還會(huì)傳來(lái)fais-do-do小提琴催眠曲。

Could there be a better promotion for a new music festival than the Great Wall of China? The Yin Yang Festival, which made its debut on the wall in Tianjin last fall, is to host a second edition in June (20 to 22). And while the music is a bit narrow in scope (the website touts it as “high quality noncommercial underground electronic dance music”), it can serve as a good jumping-off point for those who want to see more of Chinese culture.

要宣傳一個(gè)新音樂(lè)節(jié)，還有什么比得過(guò)長(zhǎng)城?去年秋天，陰陽(yáng)音樂(lè)節(jié)在天津的長(zhǎng)城上首次亮相，第二屆將于今年6月(20至22日)舉辦。雖然該音樂(lè)節(jié)的樂(lè)曲范圍有點(diǎn)窄(官網(wǎng)宣稱它是“高品質(zhì)的非商業(yè)地下電子舞曲”)，但是對(duì)那些想更多了解中國(guó)文化的人來(lái)說(shuō)，它是個(gè)很好的切入點(diǎn)。

Tickets include three days of access to the Great Wall, which knocks out a big portion of the to-do list, and the event coincides with one of China’s oldest cultural events, the 2,000-year-old Dragon Boat Festival. (Take the high-speed rail to Suzhou to watch races on Lake Jinji.)

購(gòu)買(mǎi)門(mén)票后，你可以在長(zhǎng)城上游玩三天，這是活動(dòng)清單上的重頭戲。該音樂(lè)節(jié)舉辦之際，正值中國(guó)最古老的節(jié)日之一——有2000年歷史的端午節(jié)(你可以乘高鐵到蘇州觀看金雞湖上的龍舟賽)。