時(shí)尚先生：以愛(ài)國(guó)的名義，紐約將推男裝周

 

以愛(ài)國(guó)的名義，紐約將推男裝周

MEN’S WEAR DESIGNERS of America: Uncle Sam wants you — for New York Men’s Week this summer.

美國(guó)的男裝設(shè)計(jì)師們：山姆大叔需要你們——為了明年夏天的紐約男裝周。

Though the calendar is strafed with sequential and ever-lengthening international fashion weeks, American designers are agitating for a men’s week of their own. Though the idea has been percolating for some time, it has gained momentum in recent weeks as sponsors have signed on. Men’s designers received emails from representatives of the Council of Fashion Designers of America in October gauging interest.

如今日程表上已擠滿各種國(guó)際時(shí)裝周，它們接連不斷、時(shí)間越來(lái)越長(zhǎng)，但美國(guó)設(shè)計(jì)師們正在鼓動(dòng)設(shè)立自己的男裝周。這個(gè)想法已經(jīng)慢慢散播了一段時(shí)間，但是最近幾周，隨著贊助商們開始簽約，它的勢(shì)頭又開始高漲。10月份，男裝設(shè)計(jì)師們收到美國(guó)時(shí)裝設(shè)計(jì)師協(xié)會(huì)的代表們發(fā)來(lái)的電子郵件，意在評(píng)估大家的興趣。

To hear its supporters tell it, creating a midsummer presentation of men’s shows is nothing less than a point of national pride.

支持者們認(rèn)為，在夏季中段(譯注：7月4日為美國(guó)國(guó)慶日)舉辦男裝展示會(huì)無(wú)疑能夠增強(qiáng)民族自豪感。

“Everybody has a connection to it,” said Steven Kolb, the chief executive of the C.F.D.A., who is spearheading the effort, “because of the patriotism of it all, as American designers.”

“每個(gè)人都與此有關(guān)，”引領(lǐng)這一倡議的美國(guó)時(shí)裝設(shè)計(jì)師協(xié)會(huì)首席執(zhí)行官史蒂文·科爾布(Steven Kolb)說(shuō)。“因?yàn)檫@完全體現(xiàn)了美國(guó)設(shè)計(jì)師們的愛(ài)國(guó)精神。”

The proposed week would fall, patriotically enough though not expressly for that reason, not long after the Fourth of July.

提議舉辦的時(shí)間是7月4日之后不久，這足以體現(xiàn)愛(ài)國(guó)主義，雖然沒(méi)有明確說(shuō)明。

At New York Fashion Week, held in February and September, the men’s collections tend to languish in the shadow of the women’s. Many established men’s designers have decamped to fashion weeks abroad.

在每年2月和9月舉辦的紐約時(shí)裝周上，男裝似乎被籠罩在女裝的陰影下。很多老牌男裝設(shè)計(jì)師都選擇在國(guó)外的時(shí)裝周上發(fā)布新裝。

“New York has such strong men’s wear designers at this point, but I think what happens in New York is that your business gets to a certain point and then you feel compelled to show in Europe,” said Daniel Silver, the co-designer of Duckie Brown.

“紐約擁有強(qiáng)大的男裝設(shè)計(jì)師群體，但我覺(jué)得紐約現(xiàn)在的情況是，生意壯大到一定程度，你就覺(jué)得要被迫去歐洲展示，”達(dá)基·布朗(Duckie Brown)的聯(lián)合設(shè)計(jì)師丹尼爾·西爾弗(Daniel Silver)說(shuō)。

The reason for this is partly logistical. The selling season for spring men’s wear, when buyers see collections and place orders, occurs over the summer, just after the European men’s wear shows in London, Milan and Paris. New York designers and labels including Calvin Klein Collection, John Varvatos, Thom Browne and Phillip Lim have moved their shows to Europe to close the gap between showing and selling.

這其中有物流方面的因素。春季男裝的銷售時(shí)間(也就是買家們觀看服裝系列、下訂單的時(shí)間)是在夏季，既倫敦、米蘭和巴黎的男裝秀之后。CK高級(jí)時(shí)裝 (Calvin Klein Collection)、約翰·瓦維托斯(John Varvatos)、桑姆·布郎尼(Thom Browne)和林能平(Phillip Lim)等紐約設(shè)計(jì)師和服裝品牌把時(shí)裝秀搬到歐洲，以彌補(bǔ)展示和銷售之間的時(shí)間差。

“One of the biggest puzzles in the industry is why we’re showing men’s wear on the runway three months after we’ve bought it,” said Kevin Harter, the vice president of fashion direction for men at Bloomingdale’s.

“這個(gè)行業(yè)最大的一個(gè)謎題是，為什么男裝在銷售三個(gè)月后才在秀臺(tái)上展示，”布盧明代爾百貨公司的男裝副總裁凱文·哈特(Kevin Harter)說(shuō)。

The burden falls disproportionately on emerging designers, who may not have the resources to sell their collection early.

這種壓力主要落在新秀設(shè)計(jì)師身上，他們可能沒(méi)有足夠的資源，無(wú)法提早銷售自己的系列。

“We have a great pool of young talent in America,” said Jim Moore, the creative director of GQ. “That’s something you don’t have in a lot of places. It seems to be the land of opportunity.”

“美國(guó)有很多有年輕人才，”《GQ》的創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)吉姆·穆?tīng)?Jim Moore)說(shuō)，“這是很多地方?jīng)]有的。這里似乎是機(jī)遇之地。”

But by September, Mr. Harter said, the New York collections have “almost become an afterthought, because your budgets have already been spent by then.”

但是哈特說(shuō)，到9月份，紐約的時(shí)裝發(fā)布會(huì)“幾乎是馬后炮，因?yàn)榈侥菚r(shí)你的預(yù)算已經(jīng)花完了。”

Between the megabrands that head to Europe and the smaller ones that stay in New York are midcareer designers like Michael Bastian, who holds sales appointments with buyers in June in Milan but stages a runway show in New York in September.

除了去歐洲舉辦發(fā)布會(huì)的大品牌和留在紐約的小品牌，還有一些中間層設(shè)計(jì)師，比如邁克爾·巴斯蒂安(Michael Bastian)，他6月份就在米蘭和買家們簽署銷售約定，9月份才在紐約舉辦時(shí)裝秀。

“Theoretically we could be showing in Milan,” he said. “I just never felt comfortable showing anywhere but America. We’re an American brand.”

“理論上我們能在米蘭舉辦時(shí)裝秀，”他說(shuō)，“但是在美國(guó)之外的地方舉辦時(shí)裝秀就是讓我覺(jué)得不舒服。因?yàn)槲覀兪敲绹?guó)品牌。”

Stumbling blocks persist. One is creating a strong enough lineup to draw international press and buyers to New York. The possibility of a New York event is testing the American spirit of the brands born and bred in the United States that have migrated elsewhere to show, or elected not to show at all.

有些障礙一直存在。其中一個(gè)是需要強(qiáng)大的陣容，把國(guó)際媒體和買家吸引到紐約。能否在紐約舉辦男裝周，關(guān)鍵在于考驗(yàn)這些土生土長(zhǎng)的美國(guó)品牌是否具有美國(guó)精神，之前它們有的去其他地方展示，有的干脆不展示。

Large labels, including Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren (which has not produced a men’s wear show in recent years) and Tommy Hilfiger (which has shown intermittently) declined to comment on whether they would join a New York men’s week. A representative for John Varvatos did not respond to requests for comment.

CK、拉夫·勞倫(Ralph Lauren，該品牌近些年沒(méi)有舉辦男裝秀)和湯米·希爾費(fèi)格(Tommy Hilfiger，它偶爾舉辦)等大品牌拒絕就是否參加紐約男裝周發(fā)表評(píng)論。約翰·瓦維托斯的一位代表沒(méi)有回應(yīng)要求評(píng)論的請(qǐng)求。

Another hurdle is sponsorship dollars, to defray costs of sites and production. Three sponsors have committed thus far, but at least one more is needed to meet a proposed budget of $2 million.

另一個(gè)障礙是支付場(chǎng)地和制作費(fèi)用所需的贊助。到目前為止，已有三位贊助商，但是至少還需要一位贊助商，才足以支付200萬(wàn)美元的預(yù)算。

Mr. Kolb said that creating a stand-alone men’s showcase would have historic significance.

科爾布說(shuō)，創(chuàng)設(shè)單獨(dú)的男裝周將具有歷史意義。

“When I look at the things that C.F.D.A. has been able to accomplish over the last number of years, we’ve changed the organization in a big way,” he said, citing the acquisition of the 65-year-old Fashion Calendar in July as a highlight. “If we were able to pull off men’s and do it right, it would have that same kind of stature.”

“我在回顧過(guò)去幾年美國(guó)時(shí)裝設(shè)計(jì)師協(xié)會(huì)取得的成就時(shí)，發(fā)現(xiàn)我們已經(jīng)在很大程度上改變了這個(gè)組織，”他說(shuō)。他認(rèn)為今年7月該協(xié)會(huì)收購(gòu)有65年歷史的時(shí)尚日歷(Fashion Calendar)是最大的亮點(diǎn)。“如果我們能成功創(chuàng)辦男裝周并良好運(yùn)營(yíng)，它將具有同樣的高度。”

But time is running out. Mr. Kolb said that if enough sponsorship to cover the budget is not confirmed by the beginning of the new year, the July shows, in discussion for over a year, would be scuttled and a men’s event once again postponed.

但是時(shí)間快不夠了?？茽柌颊f(shuō)，如果明年初籌集不到足夠的贊助費(fèi)，討論了一年多的7月發(fā)布會(huì)就將流產(chǎn)，男裝周將也將再次延遲。