1. To quickly assess an item's quality, hold the fabric up to a bright light.
要快速判斷一件衣服的質(zhì)量,就拿起布料對著亮光
Here's an example of two different silk blouses held up against a strong light. "The thicker the material, the higher the quality," Debbie Roes — creator of the Recovering Shopaholic blog — told BuzzFeed.
比如就像這樣把兩件不同的真絲襯衫拿起來對著強光。“布料越密,質(zhì)量越好”,《發(fā)現(xiàn)購物狂》博客的創(chuàng)建者戴比•羅埃斯對BuzzFeed網(wǎng)站說。
2. Do the "scrunch test" to see if clothes stay wrinkly.
看衣服是否容易褶皺,做“揉捏測試”
Ball part of the garment up in your fist, hold it for a few seconds, and then let it go. Does the fabric stay wrinkled or do the wrinkles come out quickly? If it can't stand being wrinkled for a few seconds in your hand, it's probably not going to withstand the test of time.
把衣服的一部分團起來捏在拳頭里,堅持幾秒鐘再放開。布料皺了還是褶皺很快就撫平了?如果捏在手里幾秒鐘就皺了,那么它也不太可能經(jīng)受得住時間的檢驗。
3. And for a quick quality check, do the "pull test."
迅速檢查質(zhì)量,做“拉力測試”
Gently tug on the fabric (this work especially well with a skirt or the bottom part of a dress) and then release it. Does the fabric retain its shape? Or does the material look altered?
輕輕地拉下布料(這尤其對裙子或衣服下擺特別有效),然后松開。布料還能恢復原來的形狀嗎?或者,布料看上去變形了嗎?
4. When in doubt, shop in the men's department.
拿不準主意的時候,去男裝部逛逛
"Super thin, gauzy tops are currently a trend in women's clothing," Roes said. "This trend also allows designers to spend less money on materials for their garments." If you're looking for a shirt that's NOT see-through, check out the men's sections for tees and oversized button-ups with higher quality. Also, since menswear offers fewer clothing patterns, their items tend to be less expensive than the women's equivalent.
“超薄、輕透的上衣目前是女裝的流行趨勢,”羅埃斯說。“借助這一趨勢,設計師們在服裝衣料上花的錢更少了。”如果你想找件看著不透的襯衫,去男裝區(qū)看看有沒有高質(zhì)量的T恤或大碼系扣襯衫吧。而且,因為男裝供應的款式較少,他們的衣服比同等質(zhì)量的女裝便宜一點。
5. Avoid exposed zippers since they can be a sign of low quality.
不要買露出拉鏈的衣服,它們也許是質(zhì)量低的標志
"Unless an exposed zipper is a design element, zippers should lie flat and be covered with a placket," said Roes. "And unless it's part of the design, the stitching holding the zipper in place should match the fabric."
“拉鏈應該平直服帖,被門襟遮住,除非暴露出來的拉鏈是一個設計元素,”羅埃斯說。“而且拉鏈的縫線應與布料相配,除非縫線是設計的一部分。”
6. Check to see if skirts and pants have decent hem allowances — especially if you're tall.
檢查一下看看裙子和褲子是否留出足夠的底擺邊高——尤其是高個子
The hem allowance is the width between the hemline and the hem edge. If you're tall, you already know that this extra bit of fabric can be a life-saver when it comes to tailoring items to be a little longer. "Generally speaking, straight or pencil skirts made in a medium- to heavy-weight fabric can have 1-1/2-inch to 2-inch hem allowances," Roes said. "A-line skirts should have 1-½ inch hem allowance to reduce bulk."
底擺邊高就是底邊到折邊的寬度。如果你是高個子,那么你已經(jīng)知道這點多余的布料在送去給裁縫加長的時候簡直是根救命稻草。“一般說來,由中厚布料制成的直筒裙或鉛筆裙,底擺邊高在1.5到2英寸,”羅埃斯說。“為了讓下擺不顯得臃腫,直筒裙底擺邊高應該留1.5英寸。”
7. And keep in mind that well-made pants have French seams.
牢記,制作考究的褲子都有法式接縫
French seams are a favored seam-finishing technique for designers, Roes explained, since the raw edges of the fabric are hidden in a neat finished seam.
羅埃斯解釋說,法式接縫是設計師們喜歡的一種縫制技術,因為布料的毛邊可以隱藏在整齊的包邊里。
8. Always check the care instructions label for natural fibers.
總是檢查天然纖維服裝的保養(yǎng)說明標簽
"Natural fibers like silk, cotton, and wool stand up to wear and tear better than synthetic materials," Roes said.
“絲、棉、羊毛等天然纖維比人造纖維更耐穿耐磨,”羅埃斯說。
9. Make sure your pattern matches at the seams.
確保衣服圖案在縫合處相匹配
Check the side seams of a shirt and around any pockets to instantly tell if quality is high or not. "Matching a plaid or horizontal stripe may mean using more fabric to cut out the individual pieces of the garment, which can drive up the cost," Roes said.
檢查一下襯衫的側縫線或任何口袋的周圍,就能立即判斷質(zhì)量好不好。“如果格子或水平條紋能夠匹配,說明剪裁單塊衣料用了更多的布,這會讓成本上升。”羅埃斯說。
10. You should also check the seams to make sure all of the thread matches.
你還應該檢查接縫確保所有的走線都相匹配
"Quality top-stitching should be straight, in matching thread (unless the top-stitching is designed for contrast) and have a high number of stitches per inch," Rose said.
“高質(zhì)量的間面線應該是筆直的,走線應該互相匹配(除非設計初衷是利用間面線來產(chǎn)生對比效果),且每英寸的針腳密度高,”羅埃思說。