2020東奧會(huì)，耐克運(yùn)動(dòng)服“自然且真實(shí)”

It’s easy to remember the 2012 Olympic Games, when the U.S. women’s gymnastics team won gold. The image is still burned into my retinas, not from the athletes’ blinding smiles, but from what they wore on the podium that evening: Gray and black tracksuits punctuated by electrically lime Nike “Volt” colored sneakers—a color that was suddenly everywhere, and is still fetishized by the high-design techwear industry.

人們很容易想起，在2012年奧運(yùn)會(huì)上，美國(guó)女子體操隊(duì)贏得金牌時(shí)的情景。如今依然浮現(xiàn)在我眼前的不是運(yùn)動(dòng)員們燦爛的笑臉，而是她們當(dāng)晚在領(lǐng)獎(jiǎng)臺(tái)上穿著的灰黑相間的運(yùn)動(dòng)服以及耐克熒光灰色的“Volt”(伏特)運(yùn)動(dòng)鞋，當(dāng)時(shí)這種熒光灰突然流行起來(lái)，而如今它依然備受時(shí)尚設(shè)計(jì)服裝行業(yè)的追捧。

Volt has continued to be the color of progress in sports, a literal, brighter future looking right at you—and so over the years, Nike has resurrected it for important product launches.

Volt一直代表著體育行業(yè)發(fā)展中的流行色，包含著你將迎來(lái)更美好的未來(lái)的意味，因此，多年來(lái)，耐克在發(fā)布重要的產(chǎn)品時(shí)重新啟用了該品牌。

But at this year’s Olympics in Tokyo, the tracksuits and shoes that Nike will provide athletes are a complete 180 from previous years. The uniforms are neutral in color—they appear to be white, but are actually a very faint gray.

然而，為了迎接今年的東京奧運(yùn)會(huì)，耐克為運(yùn)動(dòng)員提供的運(yùn)動(dòng)服和運(yùn)動(dòng)鞋則與往年完全不同。其運(yùn)動(dòng)服的顏色是素凈的——它們看上去是白色的，但實(shí)際上是淺灰色的。

“This year . . . it’s almost a denial of color . . . that we think is gonna be [the standout],” says John Hoke, chief design officer at Nike. He jokingly calls the new aesthetic “rawthentic.”

“今年的設(shè)計(jì)……幾乎是對(duì)顏色的否定……但我們認(rèn)為這會(huì)[很突出]，”耐克首席設(shè)計(jì)師約翰·霍克說(shuō)道。他笑稱這種新的美學(xué)“自然且真實(shí)”(rawthentic)。

Nike is reading the room: Both Japan and the Olympic Committee have made sustainability a big priority for the 2020 games.

耐克正在揣摩這次機(jī)會(huì)：日本和奧委會(huì)都把可持續(xù)發(fā)展作為2020年奧運(yùn)會(huì)的一大優(yōu)先事項(xiàng)。

If all goes as planned, they will be powered 100% by renewable energy. Disposable plates and cups will be made from 65% renewable material. The city is trapping rainwater to be used for cleaning venues. Even the medals themselves are made from recycled materials—the precious metals inside were mined from 47 tons of old electronics, donated by citizens across Japan.

如果一切按計(jì)劃進(jìn)行，則一切都可以用可再生能源提供動(dòng)力。一次性盤子和杯子將由65%的可再生材料制成。東京在收集雨水以用于清潔比賽場(chǎng)館。甚至連獎(jiǎng)牌都是用回收材料制成的——獎(jiǎng)牌中的貴金屬是從47噸舊電子產(chǎn)品中提取出來(lái)的，而這些電子產(chǎn)品則是由日本各地的市民捐贈(zèng)的。

Why the lack of color? It’s both a function and symbol of sustainability as Nike moves to what it calls a “zero waste” production process. The jacket is made from 100% recycled polyester. The pants are made from 100% recycled nylon and polyester. The shape of its silhouette makes some concessions for efficient, puzzle piece-like pattern cutting, which allows Nike to use almost all of the fabric on a spool in the garments. Nike could have dyed the material, but instead, the company left it raw to signal its own virtue.

那為什么(耐克的設(shè)計(jì))缺乏色彩呢?因?yàn)檫@既是一種表現(xiàn)，又是可持續(xù)發(fā)展的象征，而且耐克正在轉(zhuǎn)向所謂的“零浪費(fèi)”生產(chǎn)流程。它的夾克杉完全是用回收的聚酯纖維制成的。它的褲子則完全是用回收的尼龍和聚酯纖維制成的。為了提高效率且以拼圖的模式進(jìn)行裁剪，耐克在輪廓形狀上做出了一些讓步，這使它幾乎可以把絡(luò)紗機(jī)上所有的織物都用在衣服上。耐克本可以為這種材料染色的，然而，該公司卻使其保持了原樣，以彰顯其優(yōu)點(diǎn)。