The following morning, there is an urgent summons. And I hope it doesn't mean trouble. It doesn't. If we leave the second, I can see the Buddhas. But when I get there, it's not quite what I expected. It's ancient, all right. It's definitely beautiful. But it's small, not one of those big ones I saw across the valley the day before. It's also not in very good shape.
But the irony is the very nature of this sculpture was the cause of its destruction. Because Muslims abhor the worship of idols. And so from about the 7th century, Muslim pilgrims coming through this valley, simply obey their religion. And this is the result.
But there is an even greater irony: Buddhism was also a religion that abhorred idols. Over 2,000 years ago, the Buddha was represented by a symbol, usually a footprint or a wheel. But then a great change in Buddhism took place. And it took place right here. The kings who ruled Bamiyan launched a new humanized form of Buddhism by turning the Buddha into a recognizable man. So the Bamiyan Buddhas are not only some of the biggest, they are some of the oldest in the world. But for me, they are so tantalizingly near, and yet so frustratingly far away.
Early next morning, we have one last-ditch attempt to get permission. And miraculously, it works. The Taliban commander will let us see the giant Buddhas in return for a favor. He wants me to take his photograph. So once again, in a country which bans photography of the human form, this is not the time to point out inconsistencies in anyone's logic.
Make it warm. You could get it first.
Here you are.
That's good?
So at last, I get my chance to explore the Buddhas.